Can it still be called Hakka fried without fish? A few authentic Taiwanese dishes named after "ethnic groups"

Speaking of food or food, "Hakka fried" is a good heart for many people. "Sauté, fragrant, and fat" seems to have a bad health principle, but it makes people unable to stop one bite after another. "Social Lab Social Experience Room" has been following the online audio of "Hakka cuisine" for three months in 2023. Hakka stir-fry is indeed ranked first, perfectly demonstrating the true nature of Hakka.

Although the Hakka group comes from the opposite bank, Hakka fried food is a genuine "Taiwanese dish". Writer Chen Jingyi once checked and confirmed it with the Visitor Commission. Poet Jiao Tong also said that "Hakka fried food was invented by Hakka women in Taiwan." It is similar to Zuo Zongtang chicken, moon flakes, red beef noodles, etc.

Hakka fried food is also a few dishes named after "ethnic group". Generally, the names of dishes are commonly called people (such as Dongpo pork) and place names (such as Beijing roast duck), and the title of "ethnic group" is less common.

The name is Hakka. On the one hand, the dishes are very Hakka-like. The three animals used in Hakka sacrifices are chicken, pig, and fish. Unlike the chicken, pig, and fish of the Minnan people, why are fish instead of fresh fish? It is related to "there must be guests whenever there are mountains." According to various schools, Hakka people came to Taiwan late and mostly lived in hills or terraces with high screens like peach and bamboo seedlings. In the past, transportation was inconvenient and went out to buy New Year's goods during the years. Dry fish was easy to preserve and expensive, so it became a good ingredient on the altar.

After the worship, the pork is cut into pieces, the fish is soaked, and the rice is added, and the sauce is fried quickly and it is made into a delicious food. As for the Hakka stir-fry in the restaurant, in addition to the three elements of pork, fish and stew, they also add dried beans, rice, celery, etc., or add bean sauce, fermented black beans, chili, etc. to cater to the market taste, which is considered a second-generation version.

Named as Hakka may also be related to politics. Hakka people will not call this dish "Hakka fried". It was originally called "fried meat", "fried fried fish" or "fried fish". As politicians constantly emphasize that they are Hakka people and love to eat Hakka dishes. When "Hakka fried" becomes a general dish, the "you/me" consciousness behind it becomes a deep-seated contradiction hidden in cultural symbols.

Under the catalysis of ethnic consent recognition, the Executive Yuan established the Husbandry Commission in 2001 and gradually formed a "Hakka cuisine theory", connecting the three major features of Hakka cuisine "fried, fragrant, fat", "dry or marinated food", "not refined but practical, delicious" with ethnic spirits such as "traditional", and "hard and endured" to highlight the ethnic characteristics and value. However, under the trend of health orientation, the Husbandry Commission has also changed the cuisine characteristics to "sour, sweet, and fragrant" in recent years, and tried to introduce Western or other cuisine cooking techniques to make Hakka cuisine refined.

Taking Hakka Fried as an example, the Hakka Fried National Competition will be held in 2020. This year, it will be divided into traditional and creative groups for the first time. The Hakka Fried Fried Pizza last year and cooperated with Dameile to develop Hakka Fried Pizza. It is all an attempt to add more possibilities to the future of Hakka dishes through cross-domain excitement, but how to be compatible with traditional flavors, maintain ethnic characteristics and gain market recognition remains to be observed.

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Just entered the media, the first stop was Miaoli, Hakka County. This dish is often found during dinners. The beer was served with stir-fry in that year. My colleagues, colleagues and many other sources of information came from, regardless of the guests or other provinces, I was drunk and heard the sound, and I was very happy.

Later, I transferred to Taichung, Yunjia, New Taipei and other places. After eating countless Hakka stir-fry, I looked back and unexpectedly found that the delicious stir-fry was "only in the lightning and firewood".

4 years ago, my friend visited Zhuolan Town, Miaoli, where guests are blended with, and entered the Shengfa Restaurant, famous for its mountainous property. For the first time, I went to their Hakka fried rice cooker. It was dry and savory, which was amazing.

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Recently, I was surprised at a snack bar near my hometown in Beitou. I ate the dishes in a standard way. I asked the boss and learned that there were hidden dishes such as "small stir-fry". However, she replaced fish with foreign stew. The pork meat and meat were cut into pieces with lotus root powder, and stir-fry quickly with dried beans and green stews. The dishes served were delicious. The aroma of oil was not as good as traditional Hakka fried, which was more suitable for me who was already in the age of fertilization.

"All encounters in the world are a long-lasting reunion." Zhuolan is the first "management area" in his career. He also went to Shengdian Restaurant. He only recognized their specialty fried food more than 20 years later. Beitou was my birth and growth place. When I grew up, I moved around in the central and southern part of the country. Later, I was transferred back to the northern committee and regained the home-cooked taste in my hometown alleys.

Hakka, this place of peace of mind is my country. The fried food is a small smile, and the fried food is a life of all kinds.